THE BEAUTY OF ART EXISTS HERE. KIMONO. PART 1. HEIAN PERIOD. CHAPTER 1.

The Heian Period

Young daughter of the noble family in formal dress called "kazami."
"Kazami (=a formal dress for the daughter of noble family)" is an inner clothes [or an underwear] which was originally designed to soak up sweat. Eventually it became an outer dress for the people in lower social class. Further it was made larger to be used for the full dress of the youong daughters of imperial court.
Therefore, naturally the original form of "kazami" must be quite different from the one worn by the young daughters of imperial court, but then both of them are "hitoe," unlined kimono clothes after all.
The features of full dress of young daughter of imperial court are, a round-shaped neckband, "ketteki (=outer kimono clothes with open armholes," 2 kins of body width, and 2 kins of sleeve width, 1 jo 6 shaku of front part kimono length (=dresser's length) and 1 jo 5 shaku of back part kimono.
The figure in the photo is dressed in a square form with the neckband desined in rouond shape. Under the "kazami" it wears "akome", "itsutsu-ginu (=five clothes)," "uchiki (=middle garment)," "hitoe (=unlined garment)", a white omote-bakama (=divided skirt), all of which are layered up on long "hari-bakama ." They are all based on the sizes shown in the Msasuke Shouzoku (=costume) Selection".



Young girl in everyday wear called "kazami."




Courtier in regular court dress, ikan: ho (=outer robe) and sashinuki(=divided long skirt or trousers).




Courtier of the side of Emperor in regular court dress "ikan." The dress's color is green, and the green is called "kikujin". This is permited from Emperor.




Court lady in semiformal costumes known as "itsutsu-ginu kouchiki": "kouchiki (=little cloak)" over "itsutsu-ginu (=robes) and "naga-bakama (=dcivided skirt).




Court lady in everyday wear for winter with "kouchiki (=robe)" and "naga-bakama (=long divided skirt)."
This is a composite figure of a court lady in everyday wear.This dress is for winter season. "uchiki" is "nibaiori." "hitoe" is "kartaji-aya" patterned with "saiwaibishi-mon." Uchiki (=robe)" is worn over "hitoe." A red "hakama" is worn and a white "kosode" is worn under "hitoe." The"uchiki" was sometimes worn in layers. The court lady holds "akome oogi (=fan)" in her hand. The hair style is straight long hair. Beside the cheeks, she has a pair of short hair called "binsogi" which is the mark of married or an engagement.




Court lady in everyday wear for summer season.





Court lady's everyday wear for summer at Insei period in latter term of Heian era.





Courtier in Shinto ceremonial robe, "jo-e."
Jo-e (sometimes translated from Japanese as "pure cloth") is a garment worn in Japan by people attending religious ceremonies and activities, including but not limited to Buddhist and Shinto related occasions.




Imperial guard in regular uniform, "kachi-e."





Costume for the chief dancer of "kagura," sacred Shito music and dancing.
Kagura is a type of sacred dance where performers dress in scary mask, wild wigs and special clothing to mimic gods and demons. The 8-hours of frenetic dancing at shrines across Kochi has to be seen to be believed. This artform is protected as an Important Intangible Cultural Heritage.




A dancer in "aozuri" (printed by green color) uniform, who playshinto-dance
called Azumaasobi (Playing in the east.)
Naturally it is gorgeous.
On the other hand, "kagura," sacred Shinto music and dance, which had been developed from the traditional Tang music since the Nara Era, is featured by simple, straight, sacred, clear, classical, high and noble moral beauty.
There are "nincho mai", "kume mai", "Azuma Asobi", etc. in "kagura." The "Azuma Asobi", shown in the photo, is a popular dance of "Azuma no kuni (=country in the east" district.
According to a study, in the time of The Emperor Ankan's reign (6th Century) Governor Michimori made the dance artistically presenting that a celestial nymph flew down at "Aritohama Beach" of "Suruga no kuni (=the country of Suruga)."
Since the "kagura" begun to be performed at the extraordinary festival of Kamo on November, 1 in Kanpyo, the period of the Emperor Uta's reign, it has become the divine work dance and it has been played at the festivals of many shrines in Japan.
The music accompanied by traditional Japanese Court dance is a large dance and music suite which consists of "ichi uta (=the first song), " "ni uta (=the second song)," "Suruga-uta", "motogome-uta", and "oohire-uta." It is well known for it is played at the Aoi Festival in Kyoto.
Six "kagura" dancers are backed up by the band of rhythm/vocal section which consists of several players, a "wagon (=harp)" player, a "hichiriki (=flageolet)", and a "koma-bue (=flute)" player.
There are two kinds of dances: the "suruga-mai" dance and the "motogome-mai" dance. They are decent dances with few motions.
As for the dancer's dress, "kazashi" is attached to "kenei no kanmuri"(=crown). " (The musicians wear crowns with "suiei.")
Moreover, the dancers wear "aozuri no ketteki no ho" with the patter of bamboos, empress trees and pheasants; the width of the garment is one "haba (=body)."
Furthermore, under the "ho" they wear "shitagasane" which bottom is attached with "wasureo" (=string), and a "han-hiji (=half-elbow)" and "hitoe (=unlined single kimono garment)" are worn over all of them.
In modern times, under the "ho" with the "aozuri" pattern of an empress trees and a pair of pheasants, the dancers came to wear a "hakama" which is called "ue no hakama" of which front cut is front-white "kiseigo" and the back color is red.
The singers' "hakama" comes with no "aozuri" patterns on it.
"Sekitai" (=stone belt) is the belt made of horn of the sixth rank for everyday use of the sixth ranking, and a dark blue "hirao (=string)" is attached to it. And the dancer carries a long sword of the sixth ranking with a black japan-finished case.
He has "shikai" (=cloth shoes) on.
"Aozuri no ho" is the dress of pure abstinence, white and indigo blue in color.
Although there are variations by use, the typical print patterns are such as grass, tree, butterfly, and bird.
This "ho" makes it a special feature to be attached with "aka-himo" (=string) to the shoulder.
This thing is recorded in the chapter of the Emperor Nintoku and that of the Emperor Yuryaku. of Kojiki, the legendary stories of Old Japan.
It was set to a common government official's specific vestments in a divine work which is not conducted by the Shinto priests after the time of Emperor Konin's reign.
Since the personnel of "omi" who served "Oname-sai" (=festival) and "Niname-sai (=festival)" wore the uniform as a mark, it was referred to as "omi-goromo (=costume for abstinence)."
There are various kinds of forms.
The dancers and the musicians of "Azuma Asobi," service of "kagura" (=sacred Shinto music and dancing) usually wore "omi-goromo" of "ketteki no ho" form, too.
Unlike private"omi-goromo" of the other government officials, the width of garment is one body piece.
Generally this garment was called "aozuri no ho."
The dancers made it the special feature to attach "aka-himo" (=red string) to the left shoulder for that of "omi-goromo" was attached to the right shoulder.
This is probably for removing the right sleeve.
The "beni-himo (=red braid)" consists of two bands, a red band and a "koki (=deep blue)" one.
In modern times, the color was changed from original deep blue into black.
The pattern of butterfly and bird is scattered to the surface of band, and it is worn from the shoulder forward and backward.
The patterns of the "aozuri no ho" and "aozuri" are for singers and instrument playerseasy, and they differ from the ones for dancers.




Buddhist priest in ceremonial vestment.
With ho-mo (=robe) and shichijo-gesa (=seven-paneled Buddhist surplice).




Buddhist priest in formal vestment. With donjiki (=robe) and gojo-gesa (=five-paneled Buddhist surplice).




Buddhist Prince in regular vestment: kyutai (=robe) and gojo-gesa.




Buddhist monk in ceremonial robe, soken and gojo-gesa.




Bugaku court dance costume for "Manzairaku."

"Manzairaku" is auspicious performance which a world is peaceful and phoenixes dance. The dance is counterclockwise,and 4 or 6 dancers, who wear "kasane shozoku (=costume)," perform as a group. The costume is also referred to as "tsune shozoku"or "hiramai shozoku." The dancers wear "tori-kabuto" and red "ketteki no ho" in the style of "kata kataginu." Under the "ho," the dancers wear the "hanpi and "wasureo," " shitagasane" "omote-bakama," which is long and bundled with a string, "kakutai (=leather belt)," "fugake", "shitozu" (=socks), and "shikai" (=shoes) ." The costume considered to be exactly the one of the Heian Era is inherited to this day.




Bugaku court dance costume for "Ryo-o (=King Lion)."




Bugaku court dance costume for "Tagyuraku."

Tagyuraku is a dance in which the dancers are dressed as courtiers of the Heian period and are engaged in a game of polo. Polo was an ancient Persian sport known in T'ang China and thence introduced into Nara and Heian period Japan.

THE BEAUTY OF ART EXISTS HERE. KIMONO. PART 1. THE ERA OF JOMON-SHIKI CULTURE.

This world of ours,
To what shall I compare it?
To the white wake of a boat
That rows away in the early dawn.

SHAMI MANSEI


You should not love a Japanese cuisine, not understand the Japanese etiquette, do not like the Japanese poetry, but you cannot consider that the kimono it is not beautiful. Today it is possible to tell that elegant Japanese kimonos it is not simply beautiful, it is fashionable. All Eastern is fashionable for today, and what so reflects essence of east culture and its woman more than magnificent kimono sewed manually, painted with colors and birds, which beauty you'll never find nowhere the earth?
Part I
But for the first, let’s discover History of Japanese Costume.:

The Era of Jomon-shiki Culture

The Stone Age of prehistoric Japan lasts until the third century before Christ. In this period, the main industry was hunting and fishing and Jomon ware (straw-rope pattern pottery) was widely used. Being isolated from the continental culture, the use of Jomon ware ranged from Hokkaido to Okinawa. The kaizuka doki (shell-mound earthtenware) and clay figures are things what remains of the stone age life.
In contrast to the Aborigines, who had conducted the stone age life until a few decades ago, are near naked, the ancient Japanese of this age seemed to wear some clothes according to the clay figures which has waistclothes, jackets and even masks. The pressed marks on earthenwears show signs of wears knitted with fine threads. The actual woven clothes were found in the remains of the latter part of the Stone Age. The ancient people probably made fascicular fibers by smashing the coat of bark to pieces. Fish skins and animal skins are also supposed to be used as materials for clothes. The woman in the photos is wearing the deer skin hunted in the summer as a jacket and the waistcloth with thread-twisted braids as a skirt.
The line-carved goddess found in the Remains of Iwakage wears waistbraids and a waistcloth. The remains is located in Kamikuroiwa, Mikawa-mura, Kamiuwaana-gun, Aichi Prefecture.
1. The Era of Jomon-shiki (style of straw-rope pattern pottery) Culture
The Stone Age of prehistoric Japan lasts until the third century before Christ. In this period, the main industry was hunting and fishing and Jomon ware (straw-rope pattern pottery) was widely used. Being isolated from the continental culture, the use of Jomon ware ranged from Hokkaido to Okinawa. The kaizuka doki (shell-mound earhtenware) and clay figures are things what remains of the stone age life.
In contrast to the Aborigines, who had conducted the stone age life until a few decades ago, are near naked, the ancient Japanese of this age seemed to wear some clothes according to the clay figures which has waistclothes, jackets and even masks. The pressed marks on earthenwears show signs of wears knitted with fine threads. The actual woven clothes were found in the remains of the latter part of the Stone Age. The ancient people probably made fascicular fibers by smashing the coat of bark to pieces. Fish skins and animal skins are also supposed to be used as materials for clothes. The woman in the photos is wearing the deer skin hunted in the summer as a jacket and the waistcloth with thread-twisted braids as a skirt.
 The line-carved goddess found in the Remains of Iwakage wears waistbraids and a waistcloth. The remains is located in Kamikuroiwa, Mikawa-mura, Kamiuwaana-gun, Aichi Prefeсture.

The Yayoi Era

An Ancient Japanese Man wearing Yokohaba-no Nuno (wide coth)

Enchi Geography Section in the last 28th Volume of the complete works of the earlier Han, compiled by Hanko of the Later Han, describes, "The people of a country called Wa live in Rakuro Sea. The country is divided into around one hundred states." Wa in the description is presumed to be ancient Nihon(Japan). Japan had been called Wa before Sui publications, she came to be called Nihon the Tang age (618-906). Gishi-wajinden (one of the legends of Sangokushi written by Chinju in China in the 3rd Century A.D.) says, "....... ...." Therefore, the costumes of ancienmt Japanese in this era are assumed to be older ones than those found in the descriptions of Kojiki (the Legendary Stories of Old Japan) and Nihonshoki (the Chronicles of Japan). The exact figures of the costumes in this era are not ascertained yet. However, in broad outline, the costumes probably looked like the one in the photos. The goodwill mission of Wa to China left their figures in "Shokukou Zukan"which was compiled in the Ryo age in the 6th Century. Though its original is not available, a copy reproduced in the 10th year of Kinei of the Sung dynasty (1077) shows the Japanese mission wearing wide clothes like stoles and tied them up on the belly. According to the copy, they did not put linen on their head, but they used linen to bind their hair and their costumes probably indicate what wide cloth looked like. The description, "The wide clothes are almost not sewed, probably means that they did not wear completed Chinese style clothes, but they wore clothes made by sewing up two pieces of clothes. this can explain the difference between "Almost not sewed" and "Not sewed."However, whether these costumes of mission are right ones or not cannot bejudged from the descriptions of Gishi-wajinden only.



A Woman of Wo Wearing Kantoi (One-piece Dress)

Kantoe (one-piece dress) was used as a jacket and wide cloth was used as a skirt. This is the costume of common people in this era.



Himiko, Queen of Wa [Ancient Priestess]

According to Gishi-wajinden, Wa indicates Japan, and there was Yamataikoku in Wa. Queen Himiko who is at the same time a priestess, ruled Wa and began to make contact with Wei in China. Although there are various opinions on the true identity of Himiko, some say that she might have been Yamatohime-no-mikoto or the Empress Jingu. There is no description in the story that makes reference to the costumes of noble people specifically.



The Era of Ancient Tomb Culture

A Man Wearing Kinu (cloth) and Hakama (pleated skit for man)
A man in the picture wears Mizura-style hair, pipe-sleeved Kinu, loose-fit Hakama, Shizuri belt, necklace with gems, gem for hand, pants straps, leather shoes and long Kabutsuchi sword.



A Man Wearing Kinu, Hakama and Mo (pleated skirt)



A Woman Wearing Kinu (jacket) and Mo (pleated skirt)
Amanouzume-no Mikoto, who danced in front of the Gate of the Celestial Rock Cave, is one of the key person of the birthmyth of Japan. She wore straight hair wig and Hikage-no Tasuki (sash) holding Ozasaba-no Tegusa. She also wore Kinu, Mo, shizuri belt and Hire (sash) on the shoulder. The sash traces of wide cloth for covering whole body.



Ancient Prietess Wearing a Sash
This woman wears a jacket with the right side under the left over Mo with stripes. The jacket is tied up with the top and bottom strings. She also wears a wide Tasuki (sash) with triangle patterns and paints her face with red clay which creates peculiar impression. The Tasuki, a trace of the older civilization, makes us imagine that the woman was a shaman serving God. A sash called Myoe has been handed down generation to generation and it is now used in religious rituals at the Grand Shrines of Ise.



The Suiko Asuka Era

The Court Costume of the Suiko Dynasty (Men's)
The costumes of the era in the reign of the Emperor Suiko were unknown in the past. The statue of Prince Shotoku, which is the property of the Horyuji Temple, was believed to be produced in the period of Tenmu Dynaty. However, by unearthening the Takamatsuzuka Burial Mound, its production date was found to be earlier than the period of Tenmu Dynasty. Cosidering the costume of the court ladies in the wall painting of Takamatsuzuka BurialMound, the costumes found in Tenjukokushuucho are probably the ones in the Suiko Dynasty.
There is a following description in Nihonshoki.
"The Emperor Suiko established official rank system in his 11th sovereign year. The system consists of 12 ranks: Daitoku, shotoku, taijin, shojin, tairei, shorei, taishin, shoshin, taigi, shogi, taichi, shochi. Colored cloth is attached to the top of headgear with brim."
"In his 13th sovereign year, the Emperor ordered the prince and monarchs to wear official coats."




The Court Costume of the Suiko Dynasty ( Female)
Deducing form this reference and the drawing of TENJUKOKUSHUCHO, the female costume is alsmost same as its counterpart. Instead of Hakama (pleated skirt), women wore HIRAMI (pleated skirt) and had straight hair tied up in the back.
HO with RAN was redish, the HEM was yellow and green brocade, the long belt was white silk, the underwear was white, HIRAMI was yellow and Mo was dark yellow.



The Costume of Civil Official in the Tenchi Dynasty
The dress regulations of the Suiko Dynasty let the head of family take the practical position in the national politicfal scene just like the officers ranked under state councilor with senior grade of the fourth court rank in later ages. After the fall of Soga family, the new regulation was adopted in the third year of Taika Dynasty [647 A.D.], established the senior and junior rank of shokukan, shukan and shikan.



The Clothes of Civil Service Officer in the Period of Tenmu and Jitoh Dynasty
Little was known about the costumes of the Asuka Era which used to be presumed to be similar to the costumes of the Nara Era. However, in 1972 Takamatsuzuka Tomb was unearthened and the famous wall painting was found which triggered explication of the costumes of this era. The wall painting is considered to be created around the end of the Tenmu's reign or the beginning of the Jito's reign.
The civil officer wears a laquered gauze cap which was regulated in the eleventh reign of Tenmu.




The Clothes of Minor Court Lady in the Period of Tenmu and Jitoh Dynasty